Lemon Drops and Hairpin Turns: A Day in the Amalfi Coast

I recently had the pleasure of hosting a group on a Regent cruise that anchored in the stunning town of Amalfi. No matter how many times I visit the Amalfi Coast, I never tire of that iconic drive—the winding roads, the dizzying cliffs, and the vibrant buildings stacked like a colorful puzzle along the hillsides. It’s the kind of beauty that stops you in your tracks every time.

Whenever I’m in the area, I always hire my favorite English-speaking driver for the day. I never recommend renting a car here—the roads are narrow, the turns are sharp, and the traffic can be intense. More importantly, if you’re focused on the road, you miss the magic of the scenery. Leave the driving to the locals—you’ll thank yourself later.

We spent the entire day visiting all my favorite hotels to meet with the managers and doing site inspections of their most recent renovations. The Covid shutdown was a perfect opportunity for them to refurbish and redecorate. 

One thing I did forget this time.... Warning my co-host, Jacki, about the non-stop curves! She probably could’ve used a dose of Dramamine before we set off. Luckily, our driver came to the rescue with an unexpected tip: she always keeps lemon drops on hand for passengers prone to motion sickness. I had no idea lemon had medicinal properties for nausea—but now I do!

The Amalfi Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stretches along the southern edge of Italy’s Sorrentine Peninsula in the Campania region. Famed for its dramatic cliffs, pastel-colored villages, lemon groves, and breathtaking coastal roads, the Amalfi Coast is one of the most iconic and sought-after travel destinations in the world.

Whether you're seeking romance, culture, culinary delights, or simply awe-inspiring scenery, this 50-kilometer stretch between Sorrento and Salerno offers something for every traveler.

Top Towns to Visit
1. Positano
Perhaps the most photographed town on the Amalfi Coast, Positano is a vertical village with colorful buildings stacked along steep cliffs. The town is known for its chic boutiques, pebble beaches, and lively café culture. Don’t miss:

Spiaggia Grande: The main beach offering sunbeds, sea views, and people-watching.

Church of Santa Maria Assunta: Famous for its dome made of majolica tiles.

2. Amalfi
Once a powerful maritime republic, Amalfi is rich in history and charm. It gives the coast its name and remains a central hub for exploring nearby attractions.

Amalfi Cathedral (Duomo di Amalfi): A striking 9th-century church with Arab-Norman architecture.

Paper Museum (Museo della Carta): Showcasing the region’s historic paper-making tradition.

3. Ravello
Perched high above Amalfi, Ravello offers panoramic views, classical music festivals, and elegant villas.

Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone: Lavish gardens with unforgettable terraces overlooking the coast.

Ravello Festival: A summer event featuring concerts and cultural performances.

4. Sorrento
Though technically just outside the Amalfi Coast, Sorrento is always my recommendation for a multi-night stay. With its lemon-scented walkable streets and views of Mount Vesuvius, I prefer to book my clients in one of my favorite hotels in Sorrento in order  to visit Pompeii and the nearby island of Capri. I hire my driver for the stunning drive for a full day of touring the coast from there. 

Marina Grande: A charming fishing village with seaside restaurants.

Old Town (Centro Storico): Full of artisan shops and limoncello tastings.

Transportation: How to Get Around
The coastal road, Strada Statale 163 (SS163), is both scenic and winding. There are several ways to explore:

By Car: Offers flexibility, but be prepared for narrow roads, traffic, and limited parking.

By Bus (SITA Bus): Budget-friendly and connects all major towns, though it can be crowded in high season.

By Boat or Ferry: A relaxing way to travel between coastal towns with stunning sea views.

Private Transfers or Tours: Ideal for those seeking comfort and convenience without the stress of driving.

Best Time to Visit
Late Spring (May to early June) and early Fall (September to October) are ideal, with pleasant weather and fewer crowds.

July and August are peak tourist months — expect high prices and packed streets.

Winter is quiet and peaceful but many hotels and restaurants close for the season.

Activities and Experiences
Hiking: Trails like the Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei) offer unforgettable views and connect remote villages.

Boat Tours: Explore hidden beaches and grottos, or take a day trip to Capri.

Cooking Classes: Learn to make regional specialties like gnocchi alla sorrentina or delizia al limone.

Limoncello Tastings: The local lemon liqueur is a must-try, especially in towns like Minori or Sorrento.

Cuisine Highlights
The Amalfi Coast is a paradise for food lovers, with cuisine rooted in fresh seafood, sun-ripened produce, and traditional recipes.

Seafood Pasta: Often made with clams, mussels, or squid.

Pizza Napoletana: Available in nearby Naples, perfect for a day trip.

Sfogliatella: A flaky pastry filled with ricotta cream.

Limoncello: Often served chilled after meals as a digestivo.

Travel Tips
Pack Light: Towns are hilly and often require walking up and down narrow stairs.

Book well in advance: Especially for accommodations during peak months.

Wear Comfortable Shoes: Cobblestones and steep terrain are common.

Use a Knowledgeable travel agent that can connect you with Local Guides: They can offer unique insights and access to hidden gems.

Final Thoughts
Traveling the Amalfi Coast is like stepping into a postcard — every curve in the road reveals a new vista of sparkling waters, terraced vineyards, and cliff-hugging villages. Whether you stay for a weekend or linger for weeks, the region has a timeless magic that continues to captivate all who visit.

Pack your camera, an appetite, and a sense of wonder — la dolce vita awaits.